Day 13 - Belgrade to Blagoevgrad - 4th June 2024

Something didn't quite feel right about Serbia. 

The hassle with getting over the border the vibe in the campsite in Belgrade or just something didn't feel right. I must admit when I was looking at this trip earlier in the year I had planned on avoiding Serbia and North Macedonia as they re not in the EU and roaming charges are ridiculously expensive. However, as the date got closer I kept typing next stop Thessaloniki and the shortest way was via Belgrade and North Macedonia so that's the way I went.

I got up after a lot of overnight noise from people arriving very late. In fact it was a retired British couple who came over and apologised and explained why (as he thought he had been scammed by some van repairers in Serbia). He explained they had stopped at a service station which had a McDonalds as they hadn't had one for months. When they returned to their van nothing happened when he turned the key - no errors nothing. They phoned their support company and they sent somebody out. The person just happened to be close i.e. in the car park. He fiddled with the engine and nothing happened them he played with the fuel pump, disconnected and reconnected and it burst into life. They were amazed. The guy said it was unlikely to get them home and they needed a new one so they trundled of to a garage nearby where they instantly dismantled the engine! Before prices or anything was agreed. As this point alarm bells are going off and they want to know how much it will cost. The head guy gives some astronomic price then halves it then comes down some more. Still expensive but they paid got it working and back together and left. They think while they were in McDonalds someone fiddle with the fuel pipes\pumps... Possibly but that's the vibe Serbia gives you.

I packed up the tent and headed towards Nis as I had to make a choice there whether to go onto North Macedonia (the short route) or cross into Bulgaria and go via Sofia. As I approached Nis I went into a service station as Nik Markovic comes from Nis and he might contact me. Just happened he was in Nis at the moment so I came of the motorway and went to meet him for a coffee. 

Nis seems quite nice. 

Nik was the same as ever though he's looking in great shape as he's lost some weight. He's left SAS.

Nik was flying back from Sofia and I made the decision to go via North Macedonia. Wrong choice.

Its a great piece of road don't get me wrong but when I arrived at the border the normal car documents, passports at the Serbian side then at the North Macedonia cubicle the guy wanted to see my Green card - now I could get from the Insurance company but I didn't think I'd need them I have a copy of my Insurance certificate. but that was another reason not to come this way...

Conveniently there was a kiosk selling Green cards just there. The Macedonian guard kept my passport while I asked how much 120 Euros! That's about £100 quid and I'm in no hurry so I said no thanks and I'll go back. They weren't happy but its a matter of principle. I am insured and they are as dodgy as f***. 

From my Dashcam theres the Green Card booth highlighted.

Oh the 120 euros had to be paid in cash.

So I queued to go back into Serbia. Same questions, same opening of van. Now the question was "why have you been refused entry to North Macedonia". 

Remember no mobile data so cant use Google Translate to someone who barely speaks Serbian and knows very little English. 

Eventually I explained go round via Bulgaria and I was back in Serbia.

Stopped at the first service station.

Top tip: Don't go to Serbia.

Top tip: If you do go Service Stations invariably have free WiFi

Looked it up and the problem with most of these Balkan countries is once you are off the shiny EU money motorways the rest of the infrastructure is shocking (think Talbot Avenue and driving that for 60 miles). 

Waze was advising go back to Nis and take the road I could have taken via Sofia.

I could see at intersection 40 it looked like a reasonable sized road so I drove the 30 odd miles back to that and went up 40. 

It wasn't a reasonable sized road and just went up and up.. oh and there was a HGV in front of me whizzing round the corners.

When I'd been going for about 30 minutes a junction approached. I was just following the HGV but the Serbian border police flagged me down. Interesting. 

being waved down by the Serbian border control - otherwise known as bandits.

Not much English but they (my name Mickey) did extort 10 Euros out of me for some drinks for them and pointed me down the road on the right. Thinking I must be near the border I asked how far and they said 50km! 

Wow - nothing coming up, villages like out of the 1930s.

Eventually I arrive at what I think is a disused border crossing and when I'm through the next village is all Bulgarian cars so I must be in Bulgaria right? 

Wrong I wasn't and instantly used all my data allowance. So no mobile data, no map and its getting dark I head downwards. Suddenly I come across another control point.. 

I haven't even left Serbia yet! 

They give the van the usual going over though they did poke about in my Ibuprofen which I tried to explain as for my back but they spoke very little English. Eventually when he found my electric shaver in the drivers door and laughed they let me go.

So I'm in Bulgaria? Eh no that's the next checkpoint. Same process, as the only van at the checkpoint that really was something out of the 1950s that Michael Caine would have been proud off. Just through this though and I'm back in the EU (now wouldn't that be good).

Passport, motor documents open van. Alcohol (yes please at this point). Cocaine? Was he asking if I had any or was he offering it to me... I'll never know I just laughed.

Here they come.

Anyway after this prodding they go "Vignette" and I go bugger I need one for Bulgaria. In this 1950s office tucked away in the corner is a brand spanking electronic vignette machine. They crowded round while I did it in English.

Then I'm in Bulgaria but a part of Bulgaria time forgot. 

God its run down, people just abandoned houses and moved to Sofia. Now its really getting dark and I thought my phone would start picking up mobile data so I'd now where to go. It didn't.

All the above houses are derelict.

I headed downward. 

Signposts in Cyrillic only. I have some off-line digital maps so accessing them give me general directions but I arrive in a particular town and haven't a clue whether to go right or left. I go right.. Wrong.

 I wander round the town and get stopped my very nice Bulgarian traffic police who don't understand English but explain I need to go the other way or I'll end up in North Macedonia (oh no I wont!)

Flagged down by Bulgarian Police.

They are nice as they lead me across town (over 10 minutes I've got Dashcam footage) to a bigger road and said go to Dupnica and get on motorway. I want to get to Blagoevgrad at least. So off I went I saw signs to Blagoevgradand followed them. 

No get back on road and head to Dupnica. I do in the dark. Lovely motorway appears. I'm thinking find a service station and I'll pop in the back. 

Nothing before Blagoevgrad. So I get off and their lit up is heaven a TIR Truck Stop. 

I think I'll nip in and nobody will notice but a guy was over before I'd even turned the lights off. 5 Euros. Sounded like a bargain to me and they had beer!

I strolled over to the "café" and boy was it posh. The showers and toilets were good as well.

Had a couple of cold ones (well 3) used their WiFi. Then moved a few things in the back (the tent to drivers seat, the inflatable bed to outside the van) and then nipped into the cosy spot in the van. 

Slept until about 7.30 so not bad at all and better than I had at Stensel as I'd made more room. The van doesn't seem to get hot early which is a good thing and the van deflectors on the front window can be left slightly open.

Sleep time!